Our first stop was in Amsterdam.
[Key: Memoir in Times New Roman, Travel Journal in Arial]
Aug. 5, 1973 Amsterdam/Rainy
Enroute from airport to Alpha Hotel saw the Free U. which costs 1,000 g. [guilders] a year. Much of the land is restored as 50% of the Netherlands is under water. The name Netherlands means “low lands.” Went through a long tunnel which is built under the runway. The city is very clean abounding in flowers + shrubbery. Most of the houses are built connecting one + another. The city is the shape of a spider’s web with the canals leading to the main business district.
Aug. 6, 1973 Amsterdam – Delft - The Hague-Rotterdam/Sunny + Warm - Rain
A very adventuresome trip in A.M. via tram to Anne Frank’s House + Rijksmuseum. An altercation between the driver + a passenger nearly caused mutiny with about 50 Dutchman all screaming because the passenger ran in front of the tram + nearly frightened the driver to death. The visit to Anne Frank's House was a solemn + stirring moment as we entered the second + third story steep stairway where she helped hide her family during the Nazi invasion. It was a hurried trip through the museum [Rijksmuseum] but we did have a chance to view the magnificent collection of Rembrandts + Frans Hals along with all the other great masters’ works of art. After a quick lunch at the hotel, we boarded our bus for Delft where we watched the artists painting the intricate designs on their beautiful china. After it is glazed, the black designs become a beautiful shade of blue + much of the Oriental flavor has been retained. The city is quaint – all houses face a tree-lined canal + flowers + plants appear in every window.
The Peace Palace, the seat of government, was quite impressive. Our final destination – Rotterdam – is an example of the destruction + havoc of war – all bldgs. so modern + “westernized.” The M.V. Emerald awaits us.
8/7/1973 Rotterdam/Dusselfdorf/Rainy
Dikes, windmills and camping areas predominated the landscape in Netherlands today. Late in the afternoon we passed into Germany + saw the vast difference in the Rhine area. The Ruhr Valley is very industrious + we began to see the effects of pollution. Dusseldorf was the highlight of the day. We did some "pub crawling" in Dusseldorf, a very industrial city. Ushi M met us + took us + the Vs to several interesting pubs. The attraction was “alt bier” which is similar to bock beer.
8/8/1973 Dusseldorf/Boppard/Warm + sunny
We left Dusseldorf bright + early. At 9 o’clock Bert + I left the ship + went on a tour of Cologne and Bonn.
How interesting to see the beautiful Cologne Cathedral built in the 13th C. + completed in the 19th C. It’s beautiful example of the beautiful Gothic architecture. The St. Martin Church exemplifies the Romanesque style and it was completed in 1020 [1220]! which preceded the Gothic style. The reason the Cologne Cathedral was built was to house the Golden Shrine, the shrine of the Three Magi. During the war these beautiful structures were spared but the lead glass windows were removed + then replaced after the war. The only part of the cathedral that war destructed was one column which was replaced by brick. 90% of the city was destroyed + although people are proud of their tradition, not much is left except churches to remind one of the history.
On to Bonn, the seat of the govt. since 1949. Saw Chancellor Willy Brandt’s home, the House of Parliament + the Pres’s home. Then we visited the beauty of the past – Beethoven’s home + the narrow streets + shops in the area. Our next stop was Boppard/Mannheim, + the weather was warm and sunny.
8/9/1973 Boppard/Mannheim/Sunny + Warm
Leaving the wine stube last evening wasn't easy as we had such fun dancing + singing with the natives, but it was harder this a.m. when we had to rise + shine! The highlight today was Lorelei, the great cliff jutting into the river causing many a ship to go aground. Our excursion to Heidelberg took us past fields of grapes on the hillside + vast areas of vegetables + grains. We stopped at Worms + visited Martin Luther statue + garden + saw the famous door where he posted his famous thesis. Heidelberg Univ. + Castle are high on the hill overlooking the Nekar R. + the view at sunset was lovely. The evening’s entertainment consisted of the captain’s farewell dinner party. As we were a little late arriving back at the ship, we hadn’t much time to prepare our hats for the contest, but “Mr. Stümpe” won second prize with his safety slogan DLRP which he presented to Jerry M, a passenger who feared for the safety without a life preserver + I took first prize for my decorative “flower girl” hat - pewter napkin rings + silver candy dish. Fun.
Other events and places we visited that were included in our Rhine River cruise included Mannheim and Strasbourg (France), Baden/Baden, Lucerne [Switzerland], Oberammergau, Innsbruck and Vienna [Austria], Munich, Rothenburg, E. + W. Berlin, + finally Hamburg. [Narrative in Arial font is from the Travels Abroad Book journal.]
8/10/1973 Mannheim/Strasbourg/Beautiful
We reluctantly abandoned ship today + left by coach to tour the rest of our trip on the continent. Just a little excitement before departure; a motor in the laundry was on fire + the boat filled with smoke.
Strasbourg was our first stop where we visited the famous Cathedral which epitomizes Gothic architecture at its finest. We travelled the autobahn to Baden-Baden, a luxurious resort area where we spent the night at an elegant hotel – the Europe. To illustrate the clientelle of this hotel, at 8:20 p.m. four pairs of shoes were outside the doors ready to be shined for the next day. Cords above the tubs are used to summon maids to assist you in getting out of the tub! We attended an open-air concert that evening + were amazed at how well groomed everyone was – minks amass. Turned in early after a mug of beer at a local bar.
8/11/1973 Baden-Baden/Lucerne/Sunny + Warm
We left promptly at 9:00 for the Black Forest + Switzerland via the autobahn. Lunch at a large inn built over 200 years ago. The sauerbraten was tasty + the décor was elegant. Souvenirs were too expensive so we just enjoyed the beautiful scenery. Zug + Zurich were interesting cities as well as the border town of Schaffhausen where we saw the Rhine R. falls. At Donaueschingen we saw the source of the Danube. I enjoyed watching the River Sihl spilling over rocks as it wound around the hills. It was very shallow + offered beautiful areas for fishing + camping along the banks. We arrived at our hotel, the Palace, which has two beds, a huge bath which converted quickly into a laundry, and a view overlooking Lake Lucerne. A bit of humor – as we entered our hotel, Jerry M’s pants fell off as he got off the bus.
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| Hammy on the Chapel Bridge in Lucerne, Switzerland |
8/12/1973 Lucerne/Beautiful
The day started with a walk to the covered bridge + Lion Monument. After a “quick” lunch, we went to the top of Mt. Pilatus. It was by four different types of transportation – 4 passenger cable car, then a larger one carrying 40 which went from one crag to another. We descended by cog, then made the rest of the trip by boat around Lake Lucerne + back to our hotel. We went over to the Bs for a drink before dinner, then did some window shopping + turned in early.
8/13/1973 Lucerne/Oberammergau/Beautiful
We left the Palace Hotel early because of all the interesting places to visit today. Since we had to use our francs quickly before leaving Switzerland, the Baron in Liechtenstein did a superb job assisting us. He took us for every franc we were worth. A short stop to take shots of the Hohenschungau [Hohenschwangau] castle + Ludwig’s Neuschwanstein castle before leaving for the rest of the trip. The Alois Lang Hotel with all its flowers was a splendid greeting. Bavaria is virgin beauty!
8/14/1973 Oberammergau-Innsbruck/At 5:30 12 degrees C! Beautiful late
Since we didn’t get close-up shots of cows yesterday travelling through Bavaria, Bert, Robert B + I started out at 6 am to watch them leave the barn for the pasture. Two loads of hay were delivered to them so we decided an hour + a half later, they were taking room service.
We ascended lofty Zugspitze Mtn (10,000 ft) via the funicular railway + had lunch on the summit. We arrived in Innsbruck, capital of the Tyrol, in time for a quick tour of the city before dinner at the Tyrol Hotel where a postcard from Mike was awaiting us. Tyrolean dancers entertained us.
8/15/1973 Innsbruck/Salzburg/Beautiful
We drove through the beautiful Inn Valley after leaving Innsbruck, Austria this morning. Had lunch in Berchtesgaden + viewed Hitler’s famous Eagles Nest in Germany before passing the border into Austria for dinner + overnight. The Grand Winkler is not our favorite hotel. The elevator jammed + we were stuck in the basement for 15 anxious moments while we were cranked to the first floor + quickly exited to our 7th floor room via the stairs. An excellent guide showed us the sights of “Old Town” including Mozart’s birth place. Viewed the Palace + gardens at Mirabel Park. The Stiegelkeller [Stieglkeller] beer hall was the most fun! We drank delicious beer in 1 liter mugs + watched the Austrian folk dancers perform. We were pretty well sloshed after two beers. Fun!
8/16/1973 Salzburg/Vienna/Gorgeous
We followed the Wolfgangsee through Steirmark [Steiermark] province to Leoben for lunch in a quaint restaurant where the stagecoaches used to stop. Nothing like having a meal in a sleigh (Aug. yet). Arrived in Vienna for dinner at the Donauturm Restaurant where we enjoyed a panoramic view of the city. Later we attended an open-air concert + listened to some Strauss waltzes + saw several dancers performer in lovely costumes. The Intercontinental is lovely + another letter from Mike awaited us.
8/17/1973 Vienna/Lovely
Our beautiful weather remains faithful. Our guided tour started this a.m. with a tour of Schonbrun [Schönbrunn] Palace where we viewed 40 of the 1441 rooms. Most of it hasn’t changed since the reign of Maria Theresa (1740-1760). All the furnishings were removed during W.W.II for fear of bombing. After touring the palace we went to the bldg. where the crypts are housed. The bodies of the rulers are entombed here, but their hearts are in a separate bldg. Also included in the tour were the Opera House + St Stephen’s Gothic Cathedral. Seeing the serious faces on everyone makes one wonder if it’s a sadness due to changes from the past. A short beer in the gardens opposite the hotel with friends Brenda + Tony R + Robert B confirmed the austere feeling of the Austrians. Shopping was a brief frustrating experience because of the inflated prices for Americans. Vienna is beautiful though + the music makes us want to return. The atmosphere was lovely at Gumpoldskirchen (Vienna Woods) – an out-door courtyard – sausage, wine sampling, sliding through a barrel, roses from Sz Marka.
8/18/1973 Vienna/Munich/Beautiful
More of the lovely Bavarian countryside after we left Vienna. Lunch at the Gmunden on the Trauen See [Traunsee] was picturesque. Dinner at the Hilton was nice. Fun, fun, fun at the Hofbrauhaus later where we consumed two liters of beer + danced to the umpah music of a German band. Elizabeth B + I tested our sharp-shooting skills and won a few feathers.
8/19/1973 Munich/Beautiful
The day began with a ride downtown to see the Town Hall at 11 at which time the mechanical show at the Glockenspiel began. Then we went to the Residency where we saw the crown jewels of the Bavarian kings + electors. The ruby-studded statue of St. George was of rare beauty. The Deutsche Museum, Olympic Stadium, University + Theresienweise where the Octoberfest is held. After dinner in the Hilton Coffee Shop, we turned in early as its been a fast pace we’ve been keeping.
8/20/1973 Munich/Rothenburg/Rainy
It cleared by noon for lunch at Nuremberg. The market place was attractive – fountains, fruits + vegetables, + another Glockenspiel. This is an interesting old Roman city with an intermingling of the new town. We arrived in romantic Rothenburg early in the afternoon + checked in at our Golden Hirsch hotel – a small quaint room on the third floor. It had a lot of charm with its petunia flower boxes until 3 a.m. when the drunks ambled by. Alot of fun this p.m. at the Puppet Theater + then drinks at the Old Baumeisterhaus where Gert H was the star.
8/21/1973 Rothenburg/Berlin/Cloudy + Cool
After breakfast we drove to Frankfurt where we left Tony, our dear driver + boarded a Pan Am plane for Berlin. Lunch earlier at Frankfurt’s tower – nice view of a completely reconstructed city. Checked in at the Berlin Hilton’s 12th floor room + was startled to see the plastered wall crumbling + cracked in our new $56 nightly quarters. The Bs + Vs joined our table for a view of the city on the roof-top restaurant. Ninkow shopping was fun later. Berlin is a beautiful metropolis.
8/22/1973 Berlin/Sunny + Cool
The zoo here is the most beautiful we’ve ever seen. The grounds are well maintained + all animals housed quite comfortably in their natural habitat type setting. The Kaiser Wilhelm Church which was bombed reminded us of the tragic past as we sat in the adjoining memorial. After lunch we toured E. Berlin. Everywhere we went we witnessed a somber, depressed atmosphere. Brandenburg Gate, Soviet War Memorial, Unter den Linden + the changing of the guards. We were at the latter at 2:30 Wed. which is the only time during the week when the entire guard march. We peered at the guards at the tower at the wall + they were doing the same to us. Mirrors were used to check underneath all the cars + buses. It was a relief to get back to W. Berlin. The evening at the Alt Berlin Beer Salon was fun. The Bs + we were the last to leave.
8/23/1973 Berlin/Hamburg/Beautiful
At Templehof [Tempelhof] airport we boarded our Pan Am flight for Hamburg. The only airlines that are permitted to fly into/from here are British Airways, British European Airways, Pan Am + Air France.
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| Hammy waiting for a boat in Hamburg, West Germany |
8/24/1973 Hamburg/Beautiful
Of all the large European cities we have visited, none can compare with the tree shaded streets of Hamburg, beautiful Lake Alster in the center of the city, large mansions which border the lake + all its surrounds. The huge business district is easily accessible via trains, cars + boat. It’s obvious the leisure style of life is appealing to the natives as well as foreignors. The farewell dinner on the rooftop at the Intercontinental was great.
8/25/1973 Hamburg/Amsterdam/N.Y./Beautiful
Our 11 A.M. flight was changed to 8 with Lufthansa because of the controllers’ negotiations. We quickly went through customs sans airline tickets to our chagrin. After a short delay due to an instrument change, we had our bag lunch + took off.



















































































