Thursday, October 9, 1986

New England and Maritime Provinces (1986)

[Key: Memoir in Times New Roman, Travel Journal in Arial]

9/23/1986 Cleve. – Albany
It’s a good thing we didn’t plan to do much sightseeing today.  It rained nearly all day and/or the cloud covering precluded viewing any colors!
Had an interesting meal at the Vineyard in the Colonie Center, an attractive shopping mall across Wolf Rd. from the Days Inn where we had a comfortable room on the "Seniors" second floor. Mileage today was 508 mi.

9/24/1986 Albany – Bangor
The colors today were breathtaking + the scenery rustic + beautiful.  We enjoyed the friendly lunch at Minard’s Family Restaurant in Rutland.  Called the Ms at the mtn chalet, but no answer, so proceeded on to Woodstock.  Enroute there who should we see standing in front of a Dexter Shoe Outlet store - Jack M.  They whisked us off to see their chalet where we visited with their family, Kevin, Gail + kids.  Lovely view!  Killington Mtns area - spectacular!
Quechee Gorge was the highlight in sightseeing as quaint Woodstock with all the rich well-preserved homes dating from the early 1800’s.  The Congregational Church + Faulkner’s Home were on our self-guided walking tour.  (One of Paul Revere's bells that he crafted is housed in the Cong. Church.)
It was late when we checked into the Quality Inn in Bangor.  It was a long 400+ miles of driving today through the Green Mtns of Vt + White Mtns of N.H. but well worth the extra time allotted to the winding, hilly Rt. 2 we chose rather than interstate.

9/25/1986 Bangor – Frederickton
Traveling I-95 from Bangor to the border of New Brunswick was unusually beautiful - full color of red maples interspersed with shades of yellow - orange - green.  A scenic view of the Penobscot R. was especially lovely before reaching Houlton, Me + Woodstock, N.B.
We spent several hours at Kings Landing viewing century old living before going on to Keddy’s Inn at Fredericton.
Dinner was delightful down on the St. John River at a pub after a nice warm swim in the heated indoor pool at the motel.  A special treat was seeing the longest covered bridge in the U.S. at Hartland.  (1,282’).

9/26/1986 Fredericton - Moncton
We had a pleasant drive along the St John River from Fredericton to Moncton, a distance of 211 Km.  We stopped at one of the many fruit stands for apples + pears.
In Sussex we stopped for ice cream cones - rated the best in Canada.  Should be – it’s the dairy capital!
Magnetic Hill was our next stop where we coasted up hill defying the law of gravity.
A trip out to the rocks at Hopewell Cape which reflect the awesome force of the relentless Fundy tides was interesting.  We watched the Tidal Bore come in from the bay - a small wave that causes the Petitcodiac R. to rise 28’ after disappeared completely - twice daily.
We drove over to Shediac for their famous lobster dinners in the evening.

9/27/1986 Moncton - Charlottetown, P.E.I.
We boarded the ferry at Tormentina at noon to go to PEI.  This ferry which holds 300 cars, has an escalator as well as cafeteria + a number of lounges.  We disembarked at Borden after a comfortable hour ride.
We viewed Charlottetown, the art museum (Robt. Harris collection of 19th C. work), and visited the Visitor Information Center where we got a Bed + Breakfast reservation at Chez Nous.  This is a lovely farm type area with modern home.  Three other couples in addition to the owners, Sandi + Paul G, joined us for the movie "Anne of Green Gables," a delightful film made in Nova Scotia, P.E.I., + New Brunswick.
Dining at the Bonnie Brae restaurant that evening was a real treat – stuffed sole, fresh vegetables, Caesar salad, + blueberry shortcake/crème!!  Yummy.
Frank + Jae B
Fran + Howard D

9/28/1986 Charlottetown (Cornwall)
It was such a lovely home we decided to stay here another day with Sandi + Paul G.
After a delicious breakfast of steak, quiche, cereal, bread, fruit, + coffee, we started out to view the beautiful countryside.
We visited a historic museum which was the site of the first settlement by the French in the 1700’s + learned of the hard life of the Acadians.
Then we proceeded to Woodleigh at Burlington where we saw everything that the Col. Johnston built of English landmarks in replica – famous cottages, cathedrals, Tower of London, etc.  Fabulous!  I bought a Hamilton tartan plaque here made in Scotland.
Going north + east we visited the Green Gables Museum, saw the birthplace + home of Lucy Maud [Montgomery-]MacDonald, the interesting + colorful author of the book "Anne of Green Gables."
Had tea + cake at the Kitchen Witch – a quaint tea room.  Enjoyed the view/antiques.
Dinner was at the Off Broadway Inn – Acadian pie- delicious.
Watched the movie “Out of Africa” with the family + guests.

9/29/1986 Cornwall - Cape Breton - Sydney Mines
Our drive to the ferry was scenic.  We went by way of Murray R. + Harbour.  The boat-ride was a little over an hour + we stopped in New Glasgow for a short lunch, then on to Alex Graham Bell’s Museum at Baddeck.  We spent several hours there – very interesting.
After a quick “submarine supper,” we were on our way to Mr. Matthew’s Gowrie House.  What a surprise!  The Ds who were our b+b mates at Sandi’s were here to greet us as were the Ss from Toronto (Dave + Maurice).  This house is filled with gorgeous antiques.

9/30/1986 Sydney Mines
This was the most interesting day!  We spent the day at Louisbourg where we saw the fortress – French colonial settlers learning about the history of this area how in the 18th C.  That took a greater part of the day, but it was worthwhile since we now understand how the area fell to the British + all the hardships the French had to endure!
We came home to this lovely place called Gowrie on Shore Dr. – a most welcome spot after walking + driving all day in the rain.
The meal prepared by Cliff + Ken was delicious.  First we started with a creamed asparagus soup – next the mushrooms baked in a delicate pastry + cream sauce – then the main course which was roast lamb/spinach, mashed pot., squash + broccoli, all cooked to perfection.
Dessert was a raspberry torte – quite nice.  Coffee was served in the parlor!
The Ds + two other couples joined us at the table.  Three other couples ate in the second dining room.

10/1/1986 Sydney Mines
After a leisurely late breakfast we took off for the Cape Breton Highlands National Park via Cabot Trail.  Our first stop was the Gaelic College which is a cultural institution of the Celtic Arts + Crafts.  I learned where the Hamilton Clan (Arran) originated in Scotland.  I also discovered that there are two tartans for Hamilton, the red as well as the Hunter.  We stopped several places along the way for picture taking + viewing.  Except for some muddy construction + raindrops it was a very pleasant drive of about 250 miles via the Cabot Trail.
We picked blueberries, saw two bald eagles, a fox out on the road + two dead moose on a truck.
We had dinner with the Ds at Skippers Landing in Sydney Mines + retired early.

10/2/1986 Sydney Mines – Dartmouth
Nothing but beautiful winding hills with bright reds, oranges, yellows, + greens enroute to Halifax on scenic Rts. 4 + 7 today.
We stopped to take pictures of Lake Bras d’Or + North Umberlin Strait. St Mary’s R. at lunch.
Checked into the Sterns Mansion for our bed + breakfast.  Not really a mansion – a little disappointing but the Ds came in shortly after we arrived + we all went out for a delicious dinner at MacAskills on the Halifax Harbour.  (We have been together at three or four B+Bs and have enjoyed each other's company!)

10/3/1986 Dartmouth
The weather was beautiful today + we drove out to Peggy's Cove and what a thrill that was.  I’ve waited 35 years to see the real thing after viewing pictures Bert took while he was here on his buying trips from Greenland.  Craggy granite rock formations + lots of fishing boats were picturesque along the coast.  We stopped at several gift shops but weren’t impressed.
The tour of the Citadel was impressive.  We had 50 min. of slide narration as an introduction by the Park System.  Very informative.
This fortification was designed to block a land based attack on the city.  The Town Clock is the oldest bldg. extant on Citadel Hill + a recognized symbol of Halifax.  It was ordered to be constructed by Prince Edward, the Duke of Kent, + it was completed in 1803.
We had dinner with the Ds from Calif.  Rode over + back on the ferry to McKelvies + had delicious lobster (Just loved the lobster here.) + choc cheesecake for dessert.
Wonderful day!

10/4/1986 Dartmouth – Digby
It was a dreary, rainy day’s drive here today with few stops enroute to the Mtn Gap Inn.  We did stop at Luninberg as it’s a pretty resort port on the harbor off the Atlantic coast.
After checking into our cabin, we did alot sightseeing in this area.  We visited the Annapolis Tidal Generating Station, Fort Anne + Port Royal.  The first settlement was at Port Royal in 1605 by Champlain.  It’s the first permanent settlement in Canada.  It was destroyed by the British in 1613, but it was rebuilt.
Other areas grew up in the next century in Maine, New Brunswick, + Nova Scotia + it’s called Acadia.
The New England colonies to the south tried to destroy the Acadian communities.  The town was renamed Annapolis Royal in honor of Queen Anne.  It became the capital of Nova Scotia.  In 1749 the capital was changed to Halifax.  In 1755 the Acadians were expelled from the area to France.
The history of this area has been very interesting and the parks system does a fine job in making it come to life.
After a delicious dinner of scallops, for which the area is famous, we retired for a good night’s rest.

10/5/1986 Digby – Moncton
Shortly after leaving the Mtn Gap Inn, I discovered a few clothes missing.  After searching my brain a few minutes, I realized they were back in the dresser drawer at Sterns Mansion.  (They were still there!)  We backtracked to Dartmouth + proceeded to Truro + Moncton around noon.
How fortunate for us to have arrived at the Tidal Bore just in time to see the wave came surging over the low tide at the Salmon River!
The colors in this area are more beautiful than they were when we drove through a week ago.
We’re in a very comfortable room at Journey’s Inn in Moncton.  It’s a fairly new chain of motels in Canada + N.Y. + they cater to business people.
Dinner tonight was at a local family style restaurant – lobster salad – very good.

10/6/198: Moncton/St Andrews
We had a beautiful drive through Fundy National Park.  We took a few pictures of deer + fawn and through a powerful telescope we were able to see the peregrine falcon nest which the park system is studying to enlarge the number of falcons that are on the endangered list.
At Alma we had marvelous sticky buns + coffee for breakfast.  At St Johns we ate at the Old Mkt Square, then out to view the reversing falls rapids.  They’re at the mouth of the St. John River.  We were fortunate to get there at high tide so we got a glorious view from two areas.  What a thrill to see that river going upstream with the onrush of the Fundy tides.  For a couple seconds I thought I could see a whale, but when I got a full view of the black object, it was obvious that it was not one but three large sea lions!
On to St. Andrews – first sunshine – then a drizzle + cloud cover – finally a downpour.  Not a pleasant welcome to Puff Inn where we met our glorious young hostess, Bridgett who teaches art at Fredericton.
Good, good salad + fish chowder at Smugglers Cove.

10/7/1986 St Andrews - Bar Harbor
We had an interesting + delicious breakfast of oatmeal, muffins, eggs + coffee with Bridget who owns the B+B – then off to Wedgewood, her father-in-laws shop, where we “bought the farm.”  I’m five Wedgewood plates richer + really, they’re lovely.
By noon we had reached Campobello, Pres. [Franklin D] Roosevelt's summer home, where we visited the gorgeous 34-room cottage.  So homey – not at all pretentious.  Loved the blues they used in their decor.
We drove around the harbor + downtown area, but decided on the High Seas Motel which is up on the hill, a short distance from the shore.  Have a very comfortable room #17 after changing from #14 which was not cleaned.
The smorgasbord here was exceptionally good – many appetizers, soups, + salads plus crab, shrimp, roast beef, ham, Swedish meat balls, lasagna, etc….
We watched the play-offs of the Amer. League Boston vs Angels on TV.
This afternoon we tried finding shoes at Bass outlet.  No luck.  Good day, as usual.

10/8/1986 Bar Harbor
After doughnuts and coffee in the room, we took off for Acadia National Park.  We stopped at the Visitors Center for a short film + orientation of the 4 hr. tour.  A book + map helped us chart our route – the Park Loop Rd.  Frenchman Bay was our first scenic overlook.  The fire overlook showed the devastation of the 1947 fire which destroyed much of the area.  (Started in a dump.)  We stopped at Sand Beach to feel the texture - small crushed shells of marine animals.  This is a beautiful beach used by hearty souls in the summer where the temp is 50-60 degrees F.  Cadillac summit (1,530’) was exhilirating.  This is the highest point of land along the Atlantic Coast.  Extremely windy!!
After descending Cadillac Mtn we did the usual tourist bit.  Shopped, ate lunch at a sandwich shop downtown Bar Harbor + returned to our motel - High Seas.
Watched Boston take the second game from Los Angelos in the play off game 9-2, then out to dinner.  Had delicious lobster across the road at the Log Cabin Inn.

10/9/1986 Bar Harbor - Ogunquit
The highlight of today's trip was our stop in Freeport at the L.L. Bean store.  There are three levels, it’s opened 24 hrs a day - 7 days a week all year.  We made a few purchases + did the rest of the shopping area – browsing – too many stores!!
We stopped at Kennebuncport – couldn’t find a room so went on to Ogunquit where we found a room at the Majestic Regency – a nice comfortable place – dinner at the Evergreen.

This ends our first glorious trip after my retirement.